Yeehaw Build Guide
This is the build guide for the Yeehaw Macro Pad that can be found here: https://www.squashkb.com/product/yeehaw.
Included in the base kit should be,
- 3 Plates (Switch-plate, PCB, Backplate)
- Pro Micro
- 2x 12 Sockets for Pro Micro
- 24x Diode Legs
- Reset Button
- 5x 9mm Brass Standoffs
- 10x M2 Screws
And in the addon kit,
- 7x SK6812 MINI RGB LEDS
- EC11 Rotary Encoder
You will need the following equipment to assemble and complete the macro pad:
- Solder and soldering Iron
- Small Philips head screwdriver (A strong magnetic one will work best.)
- Flux (recommended for LEDs)
- Switches, keycaps, and a Micro USB cable
- Tweezers with fine tip (highly recommended)
- Flush cutters or nail clippers (recommended)
- Electrical or regular tape (recommended)
The reset button is located near the top of the PCB, to the right of Fort Worth. (See picture below/) Notice that there is a mark on the PCB showing where it should be placed.
If you purchase the addon kit and would like to install LEDs, it is best to solder them now while the PCB can still be laid flat. If you have not soldered small components before, this step could be challenging.
If you decide to do so, note that the RGB do have polarity, and the corner cutout on the LED needs to match the corner marked in black on the each of the LED footprints on the PCB. (See the picture below.) To solder the RGB LED, add a small amount of solder to one pad, place the LED onto the pads, and reheat the pad while stabilizing the LED with tweezers until a connection is made between the LED and the pad on the PCB. Now add a small amount of solder to the remaining 3 pads. I recommend using flux for this step.
The next step is to solder the sockets to the PCB for the pro micro to sit in. The sockets will hold the pro micro without the pro micro being soldered to the PCB or sockets, making it easy to switch out the pro micro controller if necessary. Start by placing the first set of 12 sockets into the PCB with the plastic part of the socket on the back side of the PCB (The side with the pictures and cities, see the picture below.) Notice that the black plastic part will not be flush with the PCB. Now use some electrical tape to secure the sockets to the board then flip the board over. Solder one pin of the socket, then remove the electrical tape. You can now reheat that joint if necessary, to make the socket straight up and down. Now finish soldering the other 11 pins and repeat for the second set of sockets.
If these sockets are not straight, it may be harder to mount the pro micro in them later on.
You will solder on the top side of the PCB once the electrical tape stabilizes the sockets.
Put screws through the top of the PCB and hand tighten the standoffs to the screws on the bottom of the PCB.
The bottom of the PCB should look like this:
The top of the PCB should look like this:
If you are planning to use the rotary encoder, now is the time to solder it. It is optional but can be soldered to the westernmost part of Texas. One side of the encoder has two pins, the other side has three pins (see the picture below).
Note that the rotary encode cannot be soldered through the top plate. That is, once you finish soldering all the switches to the PCB, you will not be able to install the encoder without desoldering all the switches first.
Now place your switches in the switch-plate, and then place on top of the PCB so that the legs of the switches go through the PCB. Solder all legs of the switches.
The final thing we will need to install is the pro micro. Start by placing it face down (processor and components facing PCB) with the Micro USB port facing the edge of the board, on the sockets we soldered earlier. Now insert a diode leg into each of the corners of the pro micro thru holes and into the sockets until you feel it bottom out. Make sure you push the diode leg down until you feel it hit the bottom of the socket.
Solder those 4 legs to the pro micro and then proceed to solder the other 20, making sure you feel each bottom out on the socket. Once all diode legs are soldered, use flush cutters or nail clippers to get rid of the excess diode leg.
FR4 Case: Grab your small Philips head screwdriver and screw the 5x M2 screws into the standoffs, through the back of the backplate.
3D Printed Case: Grab your small Philips head screwdriver and drive the screws through the plate cutouts, through the PCB, and into the standoffs inside the case.
NOTE: This step is much, much easier if you use a strong magnetic screwdriver. This makes it easier to guide the screws into the standoffs without dropping them in between the PCB and switch-plate.